Surfing is one of those activities that can really get you hooked. The pivotal moment is the first time you stand up and manage to get on the "green" face of a wave. The feeling is awesome and from that point on you spend your life searching for the perfect wave. I think it has something to do with the 3 dimensional movement. You are going along as well as up and down the wave. But the third dimension is that the waves itself is also moving. I don't know of any other activities where you can get this feeling.
Anyway, 18 years ago, when I was younger and fitter the search was not too much of a problem. I had surfed a bit as a teenager and I bought a nice 7'6" mini mal that was a bit easier than trying to surf a short board.
But over recent years, I have found the surfing harder. I don't surf very often outside of the Christmas break and it means that I don't really keep in shape for the rigours of the ocean. Paddling and catching waves is much harder these days because my power to weight ratio has declined. The weight has gone up and the power has come down.
About 5 or 6 years ago, I decided to buy a long board. 9'2". Good decision. It made it much easier to catch waves and I got some enjoyment back. However, the down side was that it was not as much fun to ride. Much slower across the water and harder to turn and I am not really an old fashioned long boarder. I surfed in the 70s not the 50s.
The last 18 months I have got a bit fitter and lost a couple of kgs so this summer I mixed between my long board and my mini mal. But there were plenty of days where I walked up the beach thinking I am getting too old for this.
For a few days the surf was clean but small. This meant I had no problems paddling and the sea was kind on my body. But I just didn't enjoy the surf as much. If I took out my long board I could catch waves all day (and one day I did), but the long board on the small surf doesn't do it for me anymore. Too hard to turn and not much fun to ride. If I took my shorter board out, I would enjoy the waves when I was on them. It turns and planes beautifully and is a pleasure to ride. But I really don't catch many waves on it. I am probably a bit heavy for it in small surf.
Then we had a few days when the swell really got up. But the wind was on shore and it was rough. I enjoyed surfing these days because the waves were big enough to get some speed and power on the face of the wave. But it was hard work. Too much for an old man? I slept well those nights - with the thought that I could not do this much longer.
Just when I was contemplating that it was about time for me to hang up the Rip Curl, the perfect day arrived - and it happened to be the day we were going home. Slight offshore breeze, clean lines of swell, waves about 1 metre. Being clean it was an easy paddle and I caught plenty of waves. The size of the swell meant I could get some speed and power on the board. I had a ball. I felt like I had turned back the clock. I really felt alive.
It occurred to me that maybe I just need to be more selective about the days I go out. But then, I am sure that those earlier days got me in much better condition to really enjoy that last day so I can't afford to be too selective.
But there is no doubt I have caught the bug again and, for now, the search will continue. I am not hanging up the Rip Curl just yet.
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